Jan & Steve's México Report #10 September 26, 2005
ONE-HUNDRED AND THIRTY ONE WEEKS
It's hard to believe that it has been four months since we returned from China. Ah well, another Mexico Report is in order!
First, I must put to rest the rumor that Jan & I are moving to Canada. It is true that Jan was tapped on the shoulder and recommended for a position in Canada. However, her company's Canadian division could not wait to fill their vacant position. So, at this time, it looks like we will be returning to Chicago sometime in late spring of next year.
The nice thing about believing that our time in Mexico was ending, was that it prompted us to get out and see more of this amazing country!
PARACHODuring Mexico's independence day holiday, Jan & I traveled out to the western state of Michoacan. Our first stop was Mexico's "guitar town" Paracho. They have been making guitars, mandolins, violins, and various types of basses here for more longer than anyone can remember. You can buy a guitar for about $20 on the street. Or, you can commission one for only around $3,000, then wait about a year.
http://stevefilipiak.com/mexico/paracho/paracho_guitars.html
VOLCAN PARICUTIN
We visited the still-slightly-steaming Paricutin volcano, in Angahuan, near Paracho. This is likely the only time a person has witnessed the birth of a volcano, and lived to tell about it! In 1943, farmer Dionisio Pulido noticed steam coming out of his oxen's footprints, as he plowed his field. Soon, the earth near him, cracked open belching steam and hot gasses. Dionisio panicked and started shoveling dirt into the crack, while his wife called the other villagers to help.
As you probably have guessed, the end score was "Volcano 1, Villagers 0." No one was killed, but no shoveling in the world could stop the emergence of this new volcano.
One of the lava flows completely covered their village and nearly destroyed the church. However, the front wall and part of the back wall of the church withstood the eruption. When the lava cooled enough for the villagers to explore what was left, they discovered that the wooden crucifix on the back wall of the church, did not burn!
The villagers put the cross in the new cathedral in their new town, (appropriately named Nuevo San Juan Parangaricutiro). We visited the church and witnessed pilgrims performing this weird dance involving holding hands and taking say four quick steps forward, then three steps back…eventually making their way to the cross at the other end of the church.
http://stevefilipiak.com/mexico/paricutin_volcano/volcan_paricutin.html
LAGO PATZCUAROWe also toured a very interesting area around Lago Patzcuaro, stopping in at remote fishing villages along the way. This is where I finally got into a situation with our SUV that I couldn't get back out of. While driving through one small village, the street kept getting narrower and narrower, until we rounded a corner and found a parked truck, completely blocking the road. With a small crowed of the local indigenous population "helping" we were able to drive a few blocks in reverse, to retrace our steps.
http://stevefilipiak.com/mexico/lago_patzcuaro/lago_patzcuaro.html
CUETZALAN
We also made a trip out to the remote mountain village of Cuetzalan. The population of this region still speaks Náhuatl, the ancient language of the Aztecs. They estimate that around 400,000 people still speak this language. Many of the people in the region still wear sandals and the traditional white clothing…yes, I took a few photos!
http://stevefilipiak.com/mexico/cuetzalan/index.html
PHOTOGRAPHY
Speaking of photos, my photography business continues to grow. I recently spent a very aromatic morning at Mexico City's gigantic fish market. This was likely the smelliest place I have ever been in my life! Oscar, the owner of a local seafood restaurant, picked me up at 4:30 in the morning and by 5AM, I was on the docks, taking photos.
Normally, people are pretty shy about having their photos taken, but not here. Everywhere, people were yelling "hey gringo, come take my picture!" Everyone was friendly and excited to show me how they do their job.
Our guide for this fish market tour, was Oscar's supplier, a quiet man who immediately asked me if I spoke Spanish. However, after about 20 minutes, he started speaking English with me. This is a man who owns a fish warehouse. I told him that I was impressed with his vocabulary. Oscar asked him how many other languages he spoke. He replied that he spoke French "of course" and Italian, then after a pause, he said "oh and Japanese and a little Chinese, because I want to go to Asia someday." Yes, I was impressed! He invited me to go out on his brother's fishing boat to photograph sometime. But, the boat is in Campeche, which is about 18-hours drive from where we live.
http://stevefilipiak.com/mexico/fish_market/index.html
In addition to photographing for Time-Contact magazine, I now take pictures for Business Mexico magazine. This is also another great opportunity for me to hand out business cards. Growing a business from nada is hard work, but I truly enjoy being a photographer, so it's all worth it. I have also been asked to photograph a few weddings and baby christenings. There are enough of these in Mexico, to make any photographer a wealthy man!
Also, the New York Daily News used one of my photos on the front cover of their Travel section last Sunday. I am hoping that this leads to an ongoing relationship with that publication.
http://www.print2webcorp.com/news/nydailynews/travel/20050918/p1.asp
VISITORS
Over the past few months, we have been to Acapulco a few times with friends and visitors. We also had a special guest, our nephew Dan. This was the first time I was solely responsible for entertaining a 17-year-old. My worries were unfounded. (In the end, I think Dan is more mature than I am.) Although, while Dan was here, he was a complete wild man, eating crazy things like broccoli and huitlacoche (corn fungus). However, I think he drew the line at eating bugs (which is a whole 'nother topic).
Thanks for reading
Jan & Steve